Sremski Karlovci: Serbia's Baroque Little Gem

A few minutes down the Danube from Novi Sad, at the foot of the Fruška Gora hills, Sremski Karlovci is one of the prettiest small towns in Serbia — a compact ensemble of baroque façades that once served as the spiritual and cultural capital of the Serbian people. It punches far above its size.

What to see

The town’s whole historic centre, gathered around the main square, is the sight:

• St Nicholas Cathedral — the baroque Orthodox cathedral, seat of the church, its twin towers dominating the square.
• The Patriarchate Palace — the grand residence of the Serbian patriarchs, a symbol of the town’s former standing.
• The Karlovci Gymnasium — the first Serbian grammar school (founded 1791), a handsome building still in use, and a point of national pride.
• The Four Lions fountain — the town’s landmark fountain on the square, long a meeting point.

It’s a place to wander slowly rather than tick off museums — the pleasure is the baroque streetscape and the riverside setting.

Wine

Sremski Karlovci is also a wine town. The slopes of Fruška Gora have been worked since Roman times, and the town is especially known for bermet, a sweet, spiced aromatised wine unique to the area — once served at the Habsburg court. Several cellars in and around town offer tastings.

Getting there

Sremski Karlovci is about 10 km (15 minutes) south-east of Novi Sad and roughly an hour from Belgrade. It’s reached by car or private driver, and sits perfectly between Novi Sad and the monasteries of Fruška Gora — the three make an ideal day in Vojvodina.

Bottom line

Sremski Karlovci is a small baroque jewel — the historic heart of the Serbian church, a handsome square, and a famous sweet wine, all a quarter-hour from Novi Sad. Give it an hour or two, and string it together with Novi Sad and Fruška Gora for the full northern-Serbia day.